What is the difference between blackheads and sebaceous filaments?

Ok, so this topic takes a little understanding. Let’s start with the term ‘blackhead’. It seems to be used for many skin anomalies, so let’s get to the bottom of it in an easy-to-understand way.

Blackheads are called ‘open comedones’ (this is the terminology used by skin specialists). This is because blackheads do not have a covering of skin over them. (Whiteheads are called ‘closed comedones’ as they have a layer of skin over them).

Blackheads form when the opening of a hair follicle becomes clogged or plugged with dead skin cells and sebum. Blackheads are associated with acne, and they can present themselves anywhere on the face or body. They are typically raised, slightly swollen and red, and sometimes tender to touch, and if pressure is applied to them, a thin waxy substance will appear, the surrounding skin will more often than not have whiteheads present.

Now, most of the time, when clients come to the salon, the first thing they say to me is ‘Bev, how can I remove all of these blackheads on my nose?’.

As a rule, if you run a clean finger over your nose and they are flat to the surface, they are not blackheads. They are sebaceous filaments. The condition of your skin can also determine this. If it is free from whiteheads, this is another good indication that you are looking at sebaceous filaments.

Sebaceous filaments are pores that have become enlarged over the years, often due to an overproduction of sebum. The body’s natural defence is to keep bacteria out and maintain the waterproofing barrier of the skin. To do this, the body will fill up the enlarged pores with sebum for protection. However, once the sebum has reached the skin’s surface, it will oxidise with the atmosphere and turn black. This is normal.

As a result, the sebum within sebaceous filaments is far trickier to remove, and once extracted; the pores will fill up with sebum again very quickly.

A skin specialist will rarely, if ever, promote the use of pore strips ( I don’t know of any of my skin therapist friends recommending these). There are far nicer ways of removing the sebum from sebaceous filaments than ripping material (and skin) off , or squeezing the life out of your nose!. In fact, squeezing will do very little at all – apart from making the skin sore and red, it certainly won’t remove the sebum easily.

There are certain professional skincare products and in-salon treatments I recommend for helping reduce the appearance of sebaceous filaments and blackheads. Please book your free consultation to find out how I can help you reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.